Money
Scotland uses pounds sterling. Three Scottish banks — Bank of Scotland, Royal Bank of Scotland and Clydesdale — issue their own banknotes, which circulate alongside Bank of England notes and are used interchangeably here. They are occasionally queried in England, so spend them before you travel south.
Cards and contactless are accepted essentially everywhere, including on buses and trams.
Tipping
Around ten per cent in restaurants, and check whether a service charge has already been added. Not expected in pubs, where you order and pay at the bar. Taxis are usually rounded up.
Transport fares
Bus and tram fares within the city are flat and capped on contactless. Tap on every journey and the system will not charge you more than the daily maximum. The airport tram leg is charged separately and costs more.
The free museums
Scotland’s national museums and galleries are free: the National Museum of Scotland, the Scottish National Gallery, the Portrait Gallery and both Modern galleries. So is the Scottish Parliament. This is a genuinely large amount of a visit that costs nothing, and it is worth planning around.
Weather and footwear
Four seasons in an afternoon is not a joke here. Bring layers and something with a hood. Proper shoes matter more than in most cities: the Old Town is cobbled and steep, and Arthur’s Seat and Calton Hill are hills with rock underfoot. Mountain rescue is called to Arthur’s Seat regularly, mostly for people in smooth-soled trainers.
Daylight
Edinburgh is at 55.9° north. In late June it is light until well past ten; in late December the sun sets before half past three. Plan accordingly — a winter afternoon has very little afternoon in it.
Safety
Edinburgh is a safe city. Ordinary care in the Cowgate and Grassmarket late at weekends, when the bars empty, and standard vigilance about pickpockets on the Royal Mile in August. That is broadly it.
Smoking and alcohol
Smoking is banned in all enclosed public places. Vaping is treated similarly in most venues.
Scotland’s drink-driving limit is lower than England’s — effectively about one small drink. Do not risk it. Alcohol cannot be sold in shops before 10am or after 10pm.
Water and health
Tap water is soft, excellent and free everywhere.
The NHS provides emergency care. EU and UK-linked visitors should carry an EHIC or GHIC; everyone else needs travel insurance. Pharmacies are chemists; Boots on Princes Street keeps long hours.
Emergency numbers
999 or 112 for emergencies. 111 for urgent but non-emergency medical advice.
Odds and ends
Sunday trading is normal, unlike much of continental Europe.
Haggis is fine, and vegetarian haggis is genuinely good.
Do not call it “Edin-burg”. It is Edin-burra. Locals will not correct you but they will notice.